November 1, 2025
We went to Lugdunum, ate in a bouchon, saw a Roman amphiteater, and climbed down somewhere between 400 and 850 steps. And it was amazing!
Maybe I should translate.
At the height of the Roman empire, Lugdunum was the capital of the western Roman province of Gaul which encompassed most of modern day France, Belgium, Luxembourg, and parts of Switzerland, Germany and northern Italy. Perched on a hill, now called Fourvière Heights, above the confluence of the Rhône and Sôane Rivers, Lugdunum had a purported population of 50,000 to up to 200,000 inhabitants around 100 CE.
As the Roman Empire collapsed and Christianity grew, the medieval city slowly became known as Lyon. With history oozing from every street, we decided to sign up for a free walking tour, something that is available in most larger cities throughout the world. The tours are most often done by extremely knowledgeable and entertaining guides who often unlock not only the history but some of the lesser known, fun facts of the area. Although the tours (this one was through GuruWalk) are “free” it is expected that the folks on the tour will compensate the guide as they see fit, with a normal compensation of around $20 per person. We have always enjoyed our tours, and this was particularly true of our guide, Quentin.
Quentin was born and bred in Lyon but speaks English very well. He is a natural actor and presents his material with humor and energy. We met at the Cathedrale Saint-Jean Baptiste, a newly cleaned cathedral that looked as if it had just been built. At this point in our travels, I have seen enough churches…but I am always taken by surprise.
Left: Note the pediments lack statues. In the middle, the statues have been clearly beheaded. In the right photo, a close up of one of the arches shows that every one of the carved statues were beheaded, one by one. You have to appreciate the attention to detail.
Quentin pointed to the front of the cathedral and asked what is missing. We all looked. It seemed a little less decorated than most, until Quentin pointed out the empty spaces between the three doors. No statues! Quentin explained that in the 1500s that in reprisal for the massacre of Protestants, the Calvinists stripped or beheaded all of the statues of the cathedral. The arches over the doorways each had over 50 small stone statues carved into the arches. All were beheaded. Inside the cathedral was an astronomical clock that had been telling time since 1379, almost 650 years. It tells the time, day, date, where the sun is, where the moon is, where the stars are, …a modern cell phone has nothing on it, except it won’t fit in your pocket.
The clock that just keeps ticking…for almost 650 years. Can you figure out the date and time we were at this clock?
Our tour covered Vieux Lyon (old Lyon) as he took us through the medieval parts of the city. Now that we are officially (temporary) citizens of Thiers, we scoffed at the only one or two half-timbered buildings he showed us. We, Thierois, have a whole town of them. However, the Lyon architecture was stunning was heavily influenced by Italy and at times by Paris.
The fun part of the tour was discovering the traboules. Traboules are “secret” covered passage way through the middle of blocks, hidden by a door. The buildings of the city butt up against each other so the traboules were created as a way through a building to get down to the river without having to go around the blocks. The entrances to the traboules look like doors to the buildings, but if you pay attention to signs, you can use most of the traboules to get around. At times, the traboules were hiding places for not only for thieves, but they became an important part of the French resistance during WWII.
The architecture seemed more Italian than French, but then Italy is closer than Lyon than Paris. Entering through a simple doorway on the street, revealed traboules that took you through buildings, into courtyards, and other hidden gems.
The traboules reminded Nick and I of the passages we were introduced to in Paris. However, the passages in Paris were created more as commercial and social attractions during the Belle Epoque; the traboules were a working person’s quick way around town.
Crossing the Saône River, we were on what is called the Presqu’île or “almost island” which is a spit of land between the Saône and Rhône Rivers. The Presqu’île contains the Hôtel de Ville (city hall), large parks, and some of the high-end shopping areas.
Riding the horse in triumph is Louis XIV in the Place Bellecoure hoping to look as Roman as his predecessors 1,700 years earlier. Our guide Quentin tells us the story behind the man who wrote The Little Prince and how he turned his near tragedy into a book beloved by all ages.
Our guide Quentin made sure to show us the statue to native Lyon son, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who wrote “The Little Prince.” He grew up just a block or two from the statue erected to him. Quentin thinks “The Little Prince” has a place on our shelves of books to be reread as we mature. I will pull out my copy when I get home, especially now that I have heard the story of de Saint-Exupéry, himself a pilot who survived a crash in the Sahara and lost his life while flying for the free French in WWII.
Nick checks out the cave atmosphere of our bouchon, Chez Grand-mere. Despite being “rustic,” the food was excellent and filling.
Our tour concluded, we knew lunch was next up and a bouchon was the answer. A bouchon is a traditional restaurant, generally a mom-and-pop type restaurant with hearty traditional dishes in a rustic informal setting. Quentin gave us a list of his favorites and we chose “Chez Grand-mère” as I liked the idea of going to grandma’s house. The restaurant appeared to have only three tables but we were ushered down the stairs to what appeared to be a large cave with many tables set up family style. We were seated between a family with two young children and a young man.
Ordering at a bouchon is not difficult as there are really only three or four entrées (think starter) and four or five plats (think main dishes) at every bouchon. We had already been appropriately warned to stay away from the andouillette which is a sausage made from the pig large intestine that apparently as quite the odor. That left several far more appealing dishes including coq au vin (chicken in wine sauce) and quenelles.
Given that I have, on occasion, made some decent coq au vin, I really wanted to try the quenelles which is a fish dumpling with an egg binding. The batter is oblong-shaped and sauced with a Nantua sauce which is a bechamel sauce flavored with shrimp butter. Our entrée was a Salade Lyonnaise which was a salad of butter lettuce, croutons, shaved hard cheese, lardons (think bacon bits) and a poached egg on top with a Dijon vinaigrette. It was a lovely start before the quenelle showed up in its bubbling hot dish. The quenelle was mild-flavored with the right amount of the “sea” from the Nantua sauce. I will have to have it again!
When we realized the young man next to us was speaking English to the waitress, we started a conversation. He is Korean and living in Germany with his wife (who he met there and she is also Korean). He was on his own as his wife, who is three months pregnant was experiencing morning sickness. Both of them are software engineers and it was interesting to discuss having children in a new country so far from grandparents. Nick and I were tempted to offer our services.
The Tbilis funicular took us up to the top of Fourvière where we could enter the Basilica of Notre Dame e Fourvière.
From our bouchon, we took the funicular up the steep hill to see the Basilica de Notre Dame de Fourvière, the museum, and the Roman amphitheater. The short ride up the steep incline reminded us of Wellington where we rode a similar tram to see the view. The day was blustery and promised rain.
As you can see, I couldn’t stop snapping photos…trust me, this isn’t all of them. Yes, it was magnificent, but perhaps I was spellbound by the choice of colors…so bright and light.
Walking into the basilica took our breath away. The interior was gorgeous with lovely colors, tastefully used gold leaf, intricate stone carvings, mosaic floors, paintings, tile work…my mouth remained slightly ajar in awe of all I was seeing.
We walked out on to the back terrace of the basilica and were treated to a bird’s eye view of all Lyon below us. From our vantage point, we could see the confluence of the two rivers, the Presqu’île section, the modern buildings that defined newer Lyon and the sprawl of the 500,000 plus current inhabitants.
The Lugdunum Musée et theatres romain showcased the artifacts found on Fourvière Hill. I particularly love the half bronze horse with a drawing behind to fill in the gaps. Diana (not my sister Di, who is as beautiful) poses in between her hunts. The bottom photo shows the Roman amphitheater which was only discovered as another building project was started in Fourvière.
Just a few meters away was the Roman archaeological museum that was built into the hill, allowing visitors to see the artifacts and then end up at the bottom of the Roman amphitheater right outside the bottom floor. By the time made it through the museum, the amphitheater was closed due to the storm. We looked longingly through the rain-soaked windows. Next trip.
Just one of the many staircases that got us back to Vieux Lyon below Fourvière. As we took our last step, a clock struck 5:00 pm and we looked up to see this street cuckoo clock surrounded by admirers waiting for the little man to toot his horn.
Rather than take the funicular back down the hill, we decided to walk. It was all downhill, but very steep, punctuated at times with the choice of staircases or steep roads. It took us about 40 minutes but the rain, thankfully, was very scattered.
The two hour drive home to Thiers was stormy and we were thrilled as we switchbacked up our hill towards our apartment. Exhausted we collapsed and slept in.
Thursday we decided to have go on a treasure hunt in Thiers. From the tourism office a few days earlier, we received several maps and ideas of places to explore. The “Must-See” map was marked with 10 locations within half a kilometer of our Airbnb. The distance was nothing, the verticality and stairs were a little more challenging. Actually finding the noted “treasures” was even more of a challenge.
#1 was easy, the office of tourism, is housed in a building built in the 1400s by Louis II de Bourbon to replace a medieval castle. The mansion, with various names over the succeeding centuries was known as the Château du Pirou or later, when purchased by the Chariol family as the Hôtel du Chariol. In 1907, the building was listed as a historic monument and by the 1980s it was purchased by the town of Thiers, renovated, and became the office of tourism.
Not on the “Must-See” map, but a must see nonetheless. It sits right across from the Musée de la Coutellerie.
Just down (quite down!) the rue de Coutellerie (Cutlery Street) from the tourism office is the Musée de la Coutellerie, #2. It didn’t open for a few hours but we noticed a tiny café or perhaps more appropriately a salon du thé, L’Autre-Monde. Although right across from the Musée it was the only going concern on the medieval street. Nick and I couldn’t resist a short respite from our treasure hunt (that we had been on for a full 90 seconds) and entered. The rest of our treasure hunt ended up not quite in order.
Such a lovely spot. It really deserves a place on the “Must-See” map.
The ground floor had been renovated into a very comfortable and welcoming tea shop. The back room had been a cave, and the owner took full advantage of what was there, added some modern comforts like heat, plush comfy chairs, and lighting to encourage folks to come in, read, play one of their many games or watch from their collection of “other world” movies and videos. I ordered a ginger and lemon tea that came in a French press with instructions of how and when to plunge the tea. Nick ordered a hot chocolate that had a happy barista design on top. Both the tea and hot chocolate were as good as the surroundings. We watched as a few customers, clearly well-known by the owners, came by to say “bonjour” and pick up their drinks.
The “passage” up to #3, Eglise Saint-Genès which is on the right.
Reluctantly, we left our comfy chairs and headed towards #3 Eglise Saint-Genès. The church was built in 571 and subsequently destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1016 and classified as a historic monument 830 years later in 1846, the first such designation in Thiers.
From the church, we went through a “passage” with 50 or more steps down to the street below so we could walk up that street to find #4 and #5. It was easy to find #5. It is a “pedde,” a covered passageway the links two buildings above the alley. Apparently there are another six peddes that we need to account for. This pedde is named “Coin des Hasard” meaning “corner of chance” and dates back to the 15th century. Rumors claim that sex workers would stand in the window to sell their wares.
Finding #4 was far more difficult as we were trying to find the “corbelling” that was mentioned in the description. Never having encountered the word, and using Google search to find out what it was, we started looking up. Finally, our eyes found the corbelling which was under the eaves of the first floor of the medieval building. A series of animals and/or characters were carved into the beams that held the first floor. The sculptures represent the seven deadly sins according to the Catholic church, which made Nick and me try to name them all, and then try to figure out which sculpture was which. To save you a Google search, I will name them: pride, greed, wrath, envy, lust, gluttony, and sloth. Now, it is up to you to figure out which is which. I will post the answers in the next blog post!
Finally found #4! The corbelling is shown in the top photo that has all of the wooden sculptures. See if you can match the sculpture to the sin. Feel free to put your answers in the Comments section and add your thoughts on why you chose what! Note that I have added letters to each of the sculptures for identification. The answers will be in the next blog post.
Having walked up rue Alexandre Dumas (another one of France’s great writers who wrote The Three Musketeers and the Count of Monte Cristo), many times, we knew we could count #6 as done. In the 16th century this street was actually the last wall of the city and it was clear when you compared the buildings on one side of the street versus the other.
#6 rue Alexandre Dumas has so many features. Nick kept wondering how many medieval heads were hit while going through the doorway.
To reach #7, we had to go up the hill and cross our street, rue Terrasse, to see the Cité des Coutelleries. The Cité is a showcase of contemporary cutlery as well as innovations. Unfortunately, it has been closed since we arrived, but we know where it is!
#8 rue Conchette. Nick kept looking for the 15th century fountain. It wasn’t there. Fortunately lunch was.
Nick got excited about #8 to see the 15th century fountain on rue Conchette. We had been on this steep slightly wider street many times and had not seen a fountain. This wider street had once been the marketplace for the medieval town where hemp, wool, feathers, and horses were sold. Re-reading the fine print on the map, we realize there HAD been a fountain, but it was no longer. To ease the pain of disappointment and the increasing hunger, we chose a small café with tables in the “square.”
No fountain for #5, but a great and inexpensive lunch. The leek soup gave me inspiration for when we harvest leeks next year. The spinach quiche and salad were very good. I must admit we loved the “broonie:”
Satisfied with a 15 euro lunch of excellent soup, quiche, salad, dessert (described as a “broonie” and was, in fact a delicious brownie with raspberries in the center), and a coffee. As we headed towards the end of our tour, Nick was distracted by a BMW motorcycle parked outside a barber. As I didn’t have my haircutting tools with me, and we were halfway through our trip, and the advertised price for a hair and beard cut was only 15 euros…somehow I got Nick in the door. The barber shaved about 15 years off of Nick.
If there hadn’t been a BMW motorcycle in front of the barber shop, this never would have happened…
To continue on our map/treasure hunt we walked over to the jaquemart town clock, #9. The clock is framed by a rouet, a water wheel, key to knife making in Thiers.
#9, the jaquemart clock in the town square and #10, the panoramic view of the Vallée des Usines.
A few steps beyond the town clock is the terrasse, #10, with a panoramic view of the Vallée des Usines (valley of the factories) where the knives were sharpened and finished.
On the top left is #2, or at least part of the Musée de la Coutellerie. On the right and below is the “Maison de l’Homme des Bois,” the house of the man of wood.
We were ready to go back to #2 to enter the Musée de la Coutellerie. The museum actually included two buildings, both of which were half-timbered medieval houses. Half of the collection is housed in the museum where there are also informational videos (available in English!) and plenty of displays as you climb up the spiral stone staircase to the three different levels.
The museum included one of the sharpening benches where the men lay face down to sharpen the knives on a grinding wheel set in and power by the force of the river water. Nick got on to show the guide how it was done. In the second row, the first photo shows the expert explaining how the knives are made. The middle photo shows the imprints used as identification. In the bottom row is one of the many exhibits than included the wonderful calendar knife. I have challenged Skylar to see what he can come up with for 2026.
Just as we were finishing our perusal of the museum, the director came over to remind us that there was a knife demonstration at the other building starting in two minutes. We arrived and there was a small crowd. This demonstration was in French. Both Nick and I caught some of it, but Nick wanted to ask more technical questions. When Skylar arrives next week, this will be one of our stops. Maybe Skylar will be able to help Nick ask the questions!
Halloween Friday, we followed up on our Thiers love-fest by double checking some of our sites. By the afternoon, we decided to take a field trip to Vichy which is only a 45 minute drive from Thiers. Vichy is known for its thermal waters and spas. In World War II it became the headquarters for Vichy France which was “unoccupied” by Nazi Germany, but only nominally.
Vichy architecture came as a surprise to us after medieval Thiers. The middle photo is the Celestine art deco spa where we eventually had dinner.
Vichy is an architectural open-air museum. An exposition held in Paris in 1925 gave rise to the Art Deco movement that influenced buildings in the town of Vichy. We arrived in Vichy after 3:00, and were enamored with the Allier river that had been dammed to create a lake. There was a six kilometer circuit that took you between two bridges, the perfect way to enjoy the falling autumn leaves, the large, calm lake/river and the cloudy skies melting into the sun.
A piano bar, comfy chairs, a good hamburger, and a restroom. Just what the doctor ordered.
As we finished the walk, we were faced with a common problem, finding a restroom. Passing by the Celestine Spa, I saw that they had a bar menu. Clearly, this was the perfect stop on both accounts.
The produce all looks so good. The mushrooms have just started to show up at the market and I chose the chanterelles. In the bottom right photo, on the left, is the tiny coffee truck that attracts both the customers and vendors. There are three tiny café tables with metal chairs. It is the place to be seen on market day.
Saturday morning is market day and we didn’t want to miss anything. Our traveling market generally includes the same vendors each week who follow the market days of the area. That means that most of the vendors are friends and customers of each other. The most popular spot is the tiny wagon that serves wine, beer, and coffee. If we wander around the market but can’t find our vendor when we are ready, we walk over to the coffee wagon and we know they will be there.
Although I have absolutely loved having most of our meals cooked by someone else, I still enjoy the kitchen, particularly using ingredients that are new and different. In the first photo is my “mis en place” as I always love having things ready as I start to cook. The browned paupiette are waiting while I prepare the sauce and cook the noodles. Nick digs into the sausage part of the paupillete. In the bottom photo, note my apron. When you travel, you can’t afford to get your clothes dirty, as I often do as I cook, hence you almost always find me in an apron. However, there is no apron and I can’t afford dirty clothes. Although cooking in my underwear was a passing thought, it is too cold at the end of October for that. Then I remembered some clips I had bought as a last minute thought for travel. There is a carabiner on one end of an elastic cord and a clip on the other. I put two together, found a large pillow case in the closet and made myself an apron. Ta da! I can now face the kitchen.
I was determined to use up what had accumulated in our refrigerator. To help in that process, we bought among other things, some chanterelle mushrooms and shallots. In our minimally equipped kitchen, I made paupiettes de porc with a chanterelle mushroom sauce over noodles. Paupiette are a thinly sliced piece of pork wrapped around a sausage ball that is then wrapped with a layer of pork fat. We bought paupiette already prepared, not knowing they were filled with sausage. It was actually quite tasty. To make a sauce, I added some cream as I had no other choices in the kitchen. It worked…or at least Nick liked it.
Next week we will explore “lower Thiers” and do a couple of short road trips to neighboring villages. Then, on Saturday, we will pick up Skylar from the train in Clermont-Ferrand. That will be a new chapter!